Later, back at Le Vallon we rested and changed for dinner! Tonight, we were joining Fred and Michelle for dinner down the road at the auberge of Michele Philiberte. Along with Fred and Michelle, we were also joined by the two other couples (a couple from Dallas who's names I am sorry I forgot, and Jerome and Marie from Paris) staying at Le Vallon. We all gathered in the gardens at Le Vallon at 8pm, and then took a short 10 minute walk down the road bordered by Cypress trees, vineyards, and fields scattered with poppies, to the auberge.
Once we arrived, we sat in the garden and got acquainted. We were joined by two couples from Alsace/Lorraine, who had just come from participating in a racing exhibition in the region. Michele's wife Katie welcomed us with champagne and homemade tapenade. Wow! It was local champagne and like none I had ever tasted before...I could taste the green grass and the flowers and even a hint of apricot. And the tapenade was so creamy and good. Because the olives were so fresh, I swear I could even taste a bit of nuttiness. Everything just tasted so FRESH.
Part of what made this so special is that this is not a restaurant that is open to the public, but the chef's home. You can only come to dinner here if you have been invited or invited by someone.
As the sun set and the sky played out it's symphony of colors against the beautiful landscape, the string of lights in the tree we sat under started to glow and Katie pulled back heavy red velvets drapes to reveal where we would be enjoying our dinner.
It was large covered porch area. Possibly at one time, the previous owners may have used it to house animals or machinery. But tonite, it looked like a movie set (if you were shooting a movie about a romantic countryside dinner in Provence)! The stone walls have all been whitewashed, the decor is warm and spare - lights are strung through ladders and around pictures. Each couple has their own table, covered with a red tablecloth, a simple flower arrangement, and candles glimmering in the twighlight. I wish I had a photo to show how beautiful it was, but since the batteries in my camera died at the precise the moment I tried to capture this incredible scene...you'll have to live with my words instead.
Outside, rain began to fall as the dinner commenced. To start our meal, Katie poured us all a beautiful Cote du Ventoux white wine. It was full-bodied, with a floral nose and had a nice minerality.
Our first course was Gazpacho w/Egg and Mint. So simple yet so good! The cooked egg had a consistency that had me convinced it was artichoke and complimented the acidity of the tomatoes. For me the fresh mint evoked the provenal spring. The gazpacho was also served with an amazing Puree d'Aubergine (eggplant) and a piece of toast and topped with a Carmelized Cherry Tomato.
For our second course, we were served a Brandade (codfish and potato puree,a very typical Provencal dish) drizzled with an Orange Buerre (butter) sauce and with a Pain Croquant. Mmmm! I've had brandade before and been disappointed, but this was incredible! You could taste the cod without having that fishy taste that usually turns people off. The sweet citrus of the sauce was so unique and really took the dish to another level. It was served warm, which was good to offset the chill that was creeping into the night air.
As the air temperature dropped, Katie and Michele turned up the heat in the cafe heaters and Michelle of Le Vallon pulled out scarves she had brought for Marie and I, in case we got cold. Do you see why we love Fred and Michele? It's the little things like this.
As the chef and his wife put the finsihing touches on the third course, they switched our wine to a Cote du Ventoux red. It was medium bodied, with lot of fruit with a touch of spice. I think I have yet to have a bad or mediocre wine in all the times we have ever been in Provence, and this time is no different.
Our third course was Veau Rossigny. It was served with pureed potatos and what I am pretty sure are shaved black truffles. Roissigny is special dish prepared with meat and a slice of sauteed foie gras is served on top. Brendan is in heaven! Last year, he was on the hunt to try this dish and never was able to find it on a restaurant menu. As we savoured our meal, Fred told us that this dish earned it's name because it was the favorite of the famous composer, Rossigny.
Next, the cheese course, St. Marcellin warmed and sliced in half - filled with a thin later of tapenade. It was accompanied by a salad of mache tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper. So simple, so good.
And finally dessert! For dessert (can you believe we still have room for dessert?) we were served fresh raspberries in a berry coulis topped with Chantilly cream and Glaceau Banan (banana ice cream). After such a splendid and sumptuous meal, this was the perfect closing statement. Each flavor stood out intensely on it's own yet complimented the others.
So, fours hours and five courses later, we are all beaming with happiness from the symphony of food. Katie offered us all after dinner drinks...a choice of St. Remy, Mirabelle, or Grand Marnier. I declined the strong stuff, while my husbad happily chose a Mirabelle (pear brandy). We stayed another hour,talking with one of the wives from Alsace/Lorraine.
Since the rain had turned quite heavy, Fred returned from Le Vallon with his car to bring Brendan, myself, Marie and Jerome back to Le Vallon. He swore it was really to have another glass of Mirabelle, rather than being a kind host. Hmm, I think it was a bit of both.
I confess we didn't go to bed yet, but instead had a wonderful late evening chat with Marie and Jerome, over a bottle of wine. By the time we turned in for the evening at 3am, we had exchanged phone numbers and emails and made promises to meet up again when we returned to Paris at the end of our trip!
1 comment:
We had a great time with you guys in Aubignan and Paris. Thanks to your blog, Liz, we live our stay in Le Vallon again and again...we couldn't hope any better. See you soon and don't forget to ring wine, we'll take care of cheese :)
Marie and Jérôme
Post a Comment