Day 14
Not every day had to be about doing and seeing. We had enjoyed our time in Collioure two days previously, and decided a return trip for a day of lazing on the beach and swimming in the harbor was in order.
We plopped ourselves down on the beach on the opposite side of the Chateau Royal and spread out our blanket. One of the things I remember most clearly about our day, was a fog rolling in off the ocean. At first I thought it was clouds, and we were doomed to another day of rain, on what was supposed to be a sun filled day on the coast. The fog was eerie and beautiful, as the it billowed in, in waves, and enveloped the harbor. Though the temperature was near 90 that day, the mist cooled and cleared the air. I was fascinated, and jumped into the harbor to swim....the waters were still warm. I was enchanted as I watched the town disappear and reappear before my eyes.
Other memories, of an otherwise purposely uneventful afternoon...
Getting hungry and going to an artisanal bakery. I bought a slice of 'pissadaliere' type tart. Pissadaliere, could be compared to pizza, but with loads of onions and anchovies. I happen to love anchovies (though many, including my husband don't share my adoration). My little slice of heaven (tart) was topped with fresh tomatoes and the famous Collioure anchovies. I savoured my treat slowly, perched atop a stone wall, watching a group of older gentleman playing petanque.
A group of young schoolchildren, obedient and attentive, as their teacher gave them an art lesson steeped in the history of Collioure, as they sat in the cool shadows of the Chateau Royale.
The lovely colors of the buildings as we wandered the corridors of Collioure seeking a respite from the hot Mediterranean sun- made more vivid from the beautiful sunlight that glistened from above. Gorgeous bougainvillea blossoming and cascading down buildings. Hand painted plaques, quietly announcing a resident's aspiration or profession.
It was a wonderful slow day before we headed back to Villefranche and L'Ombre du Fort.
In the valley Tet, lies a another one of The Most Beautiful Villages de France (actually there are several, but this one consistently caught our attention), the village of Eus. It's one of those villages that climbs up and nestles in the side of a mountain...and I had to get a picture of it. Since my husband hadn't spent the day chauffeuring us about southern France, he was happy to oblige some off the beaten path (read- 'small roads') driving so that I could obtain my prize photograph.
Our meandering route took us along the edge of several peach orchards. Really, I wasn't looking for peaches, I was looking for the best photographic angle. But at one point, I thought a great view was possible and asked DH to stop the car. As I stepped out of the car, I swear I was intoxicated, inebriated - literally seduced by the perfume of the peaches that hung in the trees around me. Sweet honey nectar aromas enticed me like sirens- I confess I stole one juice heavy peach from a tree. And I held that fuzzy piece of delight to my nose until we arrived back at our B&B.
Not every day had to be about doing and seeing. We had enjoyed our time in Collioure two days previously, and decided a return trip for a day of lazing on the beach and swimming in the harbor was in order.
We plopped ourselves down on the beach on the opposite side of the Chateau Royal and spread out our blanket. One of the things I remember most clearly about our day, was a fog rolling in off the ocean. At first I thought it was clouds, and we were doomed to another day of rain, on what was supposed to be a sun filled day on the coast. The fog was eerie and beautiful, as the it billowed in, in waves, and enveloped the harbor. Though the temperature was near 90 that day, the mist cooled and cleared the air. I was fascinated, and jumped into the harbor to swim....the waters were still warm. I was enchanted as I watched the town disappear and reappear before my eyes.
Other memories, of an otherwise purposely uneventful afternoon...
Getting hungry and going to an artisanal bakery. I bought a slice of 'pissadaliere' type tart. Pissadaliere, could be compared to pizza, but with loads of onions and anchovies. I happen to love anchovies (though many, including my husband don't share my adoration). My little slice of heaven (tart) was topped with fresh tomatoes and the famous Collioure anchovies. I savoured my treat slowly, perched atop a stone wall, watching a group of older gentleman playing petanque.
A group of young schoolchildren, obedient and attentive, as their teacher gave them an art lesson steeped in the history of Collioure, as they sat in the cool shadows of the Chateau Royale.
The lovely colors of the buildings as we wandered the corridors of Collioure seeking a respite from the hot Mediterranean sun- made more vivid from the beautiful sunlight that glistened from above. Gorgeous bougainvillea blossoming and cascading down buildings. Hand painted plaques, quietly announcing a resident's aspiration or profession.
It was a wonderful slow day before we headed back to Villefranche and L'Ombre du Fort.
In the valley Tet, lies a another one of The Most Beautiful Villages de France (actually there are several, but this one consistently caught our attention), the village of Eus. It's one of those villages that climbs up and nestles in the side of a mountain...and I had to get a picture of it. Since my husband hadn't spent the day chauffeuring us about southern France, he was happy to oblige some off the beaten path (read- 'small roads') driving so that I could obtain my prize photograph.
Our meandering route took us along the edge of several peach orchards. Really, I wasn't looking for peaches, I was looking for the best photographic angle. But at one point, I thought a great view was possible and asked DH to stop the car. As I stepped out of the car, I swear I was intoxicated, inebriated - literally seduced by the perfume of the peaches that hung in the trees around me. Sweet honey nectar aromas enticed me like sirens- I confess I stole one juice heavy peach from a tree. And I held that fuzzy piece of delight to my nose until we arrived back at our B&B.
Pretty village pictures completed and DH's patience wearing thin, we continued back towards Villefranche. Our attention turned from villages and orchards towards the tumultuous skies ahead of us. It was a stunning scene, as clouds, rain and general torment swirled about, vying for dominance over the occasional ray of sunlight in the valley. I half expected the witches of Macbeth to appear or the Ride of the Valkyries to be heard suddenly throughout the valley.
Back at Villefranche, we played with the girls..teaching them all about the game of Duck Duck Goose. Whether or not this was a good thing, given the American reputation for cultural dominance and ignorance, can be debated at another time. The girls had a blast, changing the rules as they saw fit, and so did we.
The rain ended, the girls were put to bed and we headed out to the pool for another picnic dinner. We spread out a delicious French Catalan inspired meal that we had bought at the Super Marche outside Prades. Our meal consisted of escilivada (Catalan version of ratatouille), and salad with tuna and pimento (red peppers), fresh bread, young goat cheese, Catalan sausage, and cherries. We washed it all down with a delicious Dom Brial 2004 red, that was bursting with fruit and just a little hint of spice. And of course...the tastiest prize of all was my stolen peach...whose honeyed flesh fulfilled all the promises of its scent.
As the stars came out, we played out fantasies of having our own little slice of heaven somewhere here in France. Sometimes dreams can become reality, we told ourselves....and we went to bed that night holding tight to romantic hopes for the fulfillment of ours.
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